Author Archives: contessanada
Otter’s Cove
Last night I prayed for special blessings to be bestowed upon each one of Contessa’s crew and here I was awaken to just that. The manifestation of a dream come true. It is at sunrise and there is this special feeling urging me to get up and see it. I don’t know what yet I am going see, yet I follow my intuition and here it is; the sun is rising behind the trees of our cove, gentle rain is falling and washing away the nights veils while a full rainbow manifests above our cove and our Contessa resting quietly in the peace of it all.
It is my mother’s Birthday today and my intention has been to send out a paper boat of a letter to her accompanying it with a wreath of daises I purposely picked for her day. What a perfect setting for such an occasion and a morning representing three major emotions in their full display: sunrise – a new beginning; gentle rain – cleansing and washing away the veil; rainbow – hope and happiness. Thank you mama for all these beautiful gifts given today!
Baddeck, NS
First Monday morning of August, and it is a cloud covered morning with zero wind on the lake. As we heard, that is quite different out there on the ocean where the wind is blowing somewhere up to 25 KN. Definitely not a place I would prefer to be right now. After breakfast we slowly mosey up the lake towards Baddeck which we briefly visited a few days ago. There seem to be no availability for dockage there which means we are to anchor out again and possibly use our dingy to get into town. Let’s see how that will work out for it is the first actual use of the dingy so far.
To our surprise there is a dock right at the Town Warf available and we are able to tie up for the time we intend to stay in town at a minimal charge. This gives us the opportunity to have some local lunch and walk the town which is quite picturesque and filled with people. As it happens to be a public holiday and an extended weekend, this town being in the week of their sailing regattas has attracted many visitors. After lunch and some time spent walking the town our admiral decides to take us up the channel of St. Patrick’s and find a nice anchorage for the night.
Web are now moving between all these sailboats up the channel and the wind has picked up quite a bit pushing us along. After a while and now being out of the wind sitting up on the bow of the boat is very pleasant. There are occasional houses and cottages along the way but no settlements of any size what so ever.
This channel further north is open to the ocean but our journey this afternoon is taking us only to a well tucked in cove named Otter’s Cove. Here we find a nicely protected spot deep within the cove. Here we launch our Ms. Barefoot to be used to explore this tranquil little cove with some even further pockets of water hidden from sight.
Dinner is on the boat and than all the motors including the generator are turned off. Alas, here we are in total silence, just as it would be naturally displayed at this nature created setting. There is one local resident seagull that seems to take special interest in us but is too shy to come too close for some food we are generously offering.
After dinner Tom takes Barefoot on a rowing adventure to explore the neighborhood at dusk and eventually into nightfall. Listening to silence is a special treat and we wish it to remain for the rest of the night but rain being in the prediction is urging us to turn the generator back on so we can close up the boat and avoid sudden water intrusion during the night. The sky is dark and filled with stars of all formations. The mosquitos are huge and numerous preventing us to remain outside too long. What a spot and what a treat this is for each and every one of us. I believe that our dreams will be vivid and ancient in content tonight. May the Spirit of this land embrace us graciously enriching our souls with the gift of purity and peace!
Ben Eoin to St. Peter’s
It is Sunday and time for us to move on now going south west. We have our visitor on board and our Capt. Tom is very happy to have a companion finally. It is a pleasure to have Jelaine join us for a few days and create the balance that is so much needed on this long journey of ours. Plus her help with washing dishes, shamming the boat and many other chores that usually fall into my lap is very much appreciated and welcomed.
It also was nice to have a companion doing my morning yoga on the bow of the boat. The ride is short and uneventful even though the wind is blowing out of the S SW which if we were out there on open waters where our trip is taking us to would be most unpleasant. Thank God for little favors!
As we reach our marina to which we have grown accustomed to during our previous stay we are greeted by the sound of bag pipes and some loud cheering. There seems to be a game going on up at the recreational grounds just above the marina. Jelaine is kind enough to go and explore and take a couple of pictures of the event. Old traditions have been revived and people in costumes are displaying times gone by while the bag pipers joyfully pipe away at their instrument and tradition.
It is a lovely day and while I am busy preparing Osso Bucco for dinner Jelaine and Tom go hiking the St. Peter’s trail. It is 5 mi path that takes you down by the water and cross the forest paths to the lock and back either through town or again the trail leading now up some serious inclines and more of beautiful views of the lighthouse and the water of the bay on the other side of the mountain. Today those two had a rescue of a raven caught up in some strings and a branch of a tree. Tom climbed the tree to free the struggling bird from certain death and cut her loose from unfortunate captivity.
Joe got to watch his race at the marina TV and I walked around the sports field while being greeted and inventively observed by a beautiful rabbit and three squawking ravens on top of power poles. It was a mellow and cool evening at the lake till out views were obstructed by the arrival of a 120 foot big yacht that was docking for the night before their early morning departure to Halifax.
Cape Brenton, Cabot Trail and Keltic Lodge
It is Friday morning and young Grant has left his truck for us as promised so that we could go and explore Cape Brenton and the Cabot Trail while enjoying some restful times at the famous Keltick Lodge.
As we drove along and found our way across to the Cabot Trail we already experienced some incredible vistas and a cable ferry taking us across a narrow strip of water at St. Ann’s Cove and shortening the road trip a bit. Just before we got to ferry of Englishtown we met an avid photographer, up in age displaying his artful photography nicely framed and ready to sell. Joe had a nice chat with the old fellow who was kind enough to take a picture of the two of us and the infamous loaned truck for the day.
Finally we arrive at the Keltick Lodge situated so perfectly on this mountain range reaching out into the ocean displaying views that are spectacular, and ever changing for the weather seems to be changing very quickly up here at Cape Brenton. It is our date getaway and we are mesmerized by the beauty of nature and people that surround us every step of the way. Especially, enamored are we by the young people who seem to cross our paths these days regularly. It is such a delight to see these young teenagers and young adults being so open and friendly, showing no ego and ready to jump in at any given moment to be of help, or at service. After all, there is a bright future in front of us and there is hope for our planet and civilization. It is alive, as we witness daily right here in this magnificent country.
After a great dinner and live entertainment in the seating room at the Lodge, as well as a lovely visit to the Spa, we move on to explore more of the Cabot Trail for the weather has changed again and the skies are blue. After a stop for lunch at the Chowder House by the lighthouse at Neil’s Harbor we continue further and further north till we reach the most northern tip of Nova Scotia, the famous yet not very much known Meat Cove. In order to find that place you really have to be courageous and continue even when the now narrow paved road turns into a narrow dirt road and takes you higher and higher up onto the mountain. The air is unbelievably crisp and as untainted as possibly could be, but the views, ah the views can’t be described for there are no words to express this feeling of beauty displayed in front of our eyes. Only the power of nature and the creativity of the ultimate Creator can come up with such beauty and creation. Thank you God for bringing us here and sharing this still untouched beauty with us, to take what we need to take from here and give it a permanent place in our hearts!
Cruising Bas D’ Or Lake to Ben Eoin, NS
As usual we are right on schedule and on target. Early morning with an amazing sunrise over the lake. Tranquil waters, blue skies and our day begins with cruising the Bas D’Or lake.
It is an amazing day on this great lake and we are using the time to glide slowly but deliberately through tranquil waters with a slight breeze pushing us from behind. Finally it got so warm that a bathing suite is a must as is my favorite seat up on the bow with a good book to read and or gaze up on to the rolling hills as we pass by them. The water is so clear and there is a sent of freshness in the air. Thank God for this beauty and the awareness of it all!
Joe is having fun dangling his legs over the gunnel and enjoying the freshness of the water of the lake. For lunch we decide to go and visit Baddeck the capital of Cape Brenton, but there are no docks available. All we can do is anchor out and watch the junior regatta od kids race their little skiffs along the lake. It is beautiful to watch and very easily determined which ones are pros and which need help in starting with this new skill of sailing. The city is very lively and there is much happening here, one can tell. That being said we move on and start onward going to Ben Eion where the Contessa will rest for a couple of days while Tom unites with his love, Jelaine and Joe and I explore the Cabot Trail and the Ingoish Resort, the Keltic Lodge.
At the marina we are warmly welcomed by two gentlemen of which one is a seasoned one and the other a young teenager by the name of Grant. He joins us for dinner and even supplies us with his truck for our excursion of the island since there are no rent-a-cars available in the neighboring city of Sidney.
It seems that we all have something fun and adventurous to look forward to in the next couple of days, and so be it!
St Peter’s Marina & Bras D’Or Lake, NS
Late in the day of our 80 NM run from Pictou and through the Sraits of Lennox we came upon the invisible lock of St Peters. If you didn’t know or have a chart you would never see the entrance to this beautiful lock amidst well carved and rounded rocks and pine trees reaching all the way to the water lies in it’s tranquility this small lock leading into the lower part of Bras D’Or lake. Breathtakingly beautiful and so calming it is here. Even though it rained again everything was fine and calm. We tied up at the Warf of the fuel dock of St. Peter’s Marina. This is home now for a day and two nights possibly.
The end of our full day at St. Peter’s has arrive and it was a wonderful and restful day. We got to experience the small town which seems to have been the Birthplace of a well known photographer Wallace R. MacAskill. As a young man he was fascinated by the sea and taught himself how to sail yet as he was given a camera of the early 1900 he discovered his true passion. He went to New York City and studied photography which later made him famous as an artistic photographer being able to capture soft-focus impressionism capturing atmosphere above subject. Our Capt. Tom was greatly impressed by his example and shared some of his own photos of the day and his hiking trail of which I am enclosing a few. Thanks Tom!
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The entire day was filled with tons of relaxation, reading, walking, hiking and some food shopping. Our dinner was at the boat with the most spectacular sunset view and the display of sunset colors and tranquility of the lake. All is well in the world of Contessa and crew!
Pictou, NS to St Peter’s Marina, NS
Tuesday morning of July 30, 2013 it is and the seas are calm like a mirror spread out over a vast landscape as far as the eye can see. The happy clouds, like little sheep of the sky are perfectly mirrored on the surface of the water. There is barely a breeze and even a sailboat on the horizon did not put up any sails yet there are numerous pods of dolphin gently gliding through the St George’s Bay and feeding on an abundance of baitfish as it seems. Here and there a nosy seal pops up it’s head in examining the surface and checking us out as we pass by taking our time and enjoying the ride. What a difference it is to the previous day when we were tossed about by the strong SSE winds and waves up to 6 or more feet of short chop.
With a grateful heart I praise our Creator and thank for this magnificent new day of our journey.
As our path takes us up the coast and around the point into the St, Georges Bay we encounter a phenomenon of sudden on come of fog. A sheer veil gently wraps itself around a commercial fishing boat that we pass as well as the landscape of the Bay. It seems that there is a radius of clarity surrounding our boat and before you know it has lifted and retreated further into the mountains of the nearby shore.
Todays passage takes us through the lock of Cantso Straite that is connecting the St. Georges Bay with the Lennox Passage and the Atlantic Ocean. The squeaky old bridge at the lock was a sight to see and hear for it seemed to groan and moan not to eager to move as it has done for many of years allowing big freighter boats to come through it in order to load the heavy load of material used in the production of plaster. Thankfully the freighters that we encounter are docked and none out to sea. My regret is to see a beautiful mountain slowly being dismantled for the use of progress of human kind, yet deep within I know that Mother Nature will prevail and man will have to give in and find other sources without destroying the ancient beauty of our planet.
PEI to Pictou, Nova Scotia
Monday morning it is and the day of our departure from this green island and some wholesome people has arrived. As the previous crossing this one had very similar signatures, rainy, windy and gray morning of departure. Just as anticipated and contrary to our masters anticipation to believe the wind forecast to be not too bad was very quickly annulled and the wind started gusting up to 25 KN and the sea started making up 6-8 feet in short increments making the ride very bumpy and uncomfortable. Is every crossing from here on going to be like this, I ask myself?
I certainly do not hope so and pray that the weather changes and fair winds set in with blue skies and calm seas!
As we finally reach the lieu of land and the wind decides to lay down, it is much more comfortable and easier on the crew over all.
As we settle in the marina and are washing down the boat it started raining and did not stop till after dinner. Nevertheless, we decided to go for a walk, see the town of such historic importance as the first settlement of the Scottish people in the mid 1700 and find a good place to eat. The choice od eateries is very limited and we end up in a newly opened Pub right in the Harbor across from the replica of the old ship Hector that brought the first settlers across the big Atlantic Ocean. The first settlers discovered a land so much like their homeland and it also gave them the freedom they so much wanted. The word spread to the old country and thousands followed creating Nova Scotia of abundance and peace. They learned to trade with the local Mic’ Maq Indians and establish themselves to new ways of living.
Prince Edwars Island
We arrived here in PEI on Friday afternoon and stayed for 2 days and three nights while renting a car and exploring this very green island . The island is quite large and consists of a couple bigger cities of which Charlottetown is the largest. As we sadly discovered by driving in yesterday, it has drastically changed from our last visit to PEI some 8-9 years ago. It became a metropolis of the island with shopping malls and numerous new buildings, developments and settlements surrounding it all. It’s called progress and moving along with the modern world and all that it entails by sacrificing the old charm that brought us here in the first place.
In general the island consists of farm land and the rolling hills are covered by miles and miles of potatoes farms, corn, grain and soy as well as dairy and sheep farms, and not to forget some Alpaca farms as well.
As we drove around the island one day we passed by a place that was called a Showing place where horses, cattle and fowl are eagerly displayed. Majestic race horses are tested in skill and mobility. There are some racing competitions held there too. What a sight to see all these magnificent animals being presented in all of their glory. Right in front of this very busy section there lies a small house with the name “Anna’s Kitchen”. We were intrigued and entered to be surprised by some wholesome country cooking by grandma Anna and served by her two beautiful teen aged grand-daughters of which one proudly carried her name. Great stop and memorable experience!
Organic produce is with pride displayed on Fresh Farmer’s Markets in union with home baked or home made goods and goodies as well as pottery, crochet, aromatherapy and alpaca knitted products. What a pleasure just to walk through and witness all this it is!
Tasting some freshly baked cinnamon rolls along the road and engaging in some stimulating conversations about “ending world hunger projects”, the invention and utilization of windmills and other natural resources of energy, as well as witnessing in recycling and composting biodegradable waste. Canada and its people have impressed us greatly and inspired us to move on in same direction in preserving our magnificent planet and our own well-being.
What an opportunity to see, experience and witness all of this and be enriched by it all! Thank you God for allowing us to be able to do so!
Leaving Bay de Chagrin heading East NE
It is Friday morning and the day starts of with drizzle and gray skies indicating a possibility of rough seas and some weather on the other side of this vast bay. Just yesterday the locals told us that they did not have rain the entire season of summer yet. Tough luck for us for here it was!
The day of Contessa’s first reckoning with roughness of the cold north Atlantic, not even yet the Atlantic but the incredibly large Gulf of St. Laurence has arrived.
It is an early day for as on so many previous occasions we have to catch the tide in our attempt to make a 160 nm run N NE towards the Madeline Islands. Joe heard from some local captains that those islands entail some incredible beauty and also that they catch yellowtail tuna there. Well, that being said, it is a must to go, sea and experience.
It is so far one of the longest runs of the day and I pleaded to change the course and seek something less exposed and more safe for such a rough day.
Once we left the shelter of land and really got more into the open waters the wind picked up and the roller-coaster began. The wind was now gusting up to 30 KN and the waves were reaching comfortably 8-10 feet. Definitely not a scenario I would recommend to anyone in particular a land lover like me.
Our Contessa was tossed left and right and went up and down with the motion of this turbulent ocean squeaking and pleading for mercy from her master. Like a nut shell she seemed popping up and down fighting to stay on course by the skin of her bow. ” I am not an ocean freighter! I don’t deserve this beating!” she pleaded and pleaded till her master decided it is time to turn around and change course towards Prince Edward Island as originally planned.
It took a while to steady the boat and find respite from turbulent seas as we reached the protection of the red rich beaches of this incredible island PEI.
The ride along the shore was long and turned as the island was formed putting us back into the direction of the wind which simply would not let go till we almost reached the protection of the bay leading us to Summerside, our shelter for the night.
Here we were greeted by a young woman tending to the docks and making sure that we made it in safely and tide up at the dock indicated for us.
As in previous ports we met some old friends Julie and Curtis from Basking Ridge, NJ which is always a pleasure to do.
The long and tiring day made us open to a slight change in plans and the possibility of renting a car and exploring this green island that way. What a relief and different pace of a days development this was. Thank God we made it here safely and soundly and may such a day never be repeated any more!
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