Monthly Archives: August 2013
Visit to Peaks Island, MA
Portland, Peaks Island, MA
Second day of our visit to Portland started with a spectacular sunrise yet quickly was transformed into a total fog soup, as they call it here. Everything was covered with this heavy blanket of impenetrable gray mass yet so light that it could not be held or contained in any form or shape. It was a living and moving thing of its own kind, to me simply mystical and open to any minds imagination. I always saw fairies and beautiful forest spirits dancing their dance of joy in it, for now no one could see or disturb them and they were free to frolic and do their enchantments to their hearts content. Others reported ghost ships or headless men riding on horses of which there are many stories written. I still prefer my version of beauty and joy.


As we prepare to visit our friends who live on Peaks Island which is only some 12 miles away by boat our dear friends Laurie and Troy from Staniel Cay arrive to say hello and reminisce a bit on things we and they have been up to since our last encounter. They live about one hour or so inland from here on a beautiful lake, as they describe it in a small town called Gardiner. It is their place of peace and tranquility where they find respite from daily stress of work and life. One more place on our list to visit and experience for ourselves. One of lessons learned on this long journey is definitely that city life is not something neither of us are longing for and find it rather disturbing and too noisy.


Our friend Charlie has sent a water taxi to come and fetch us and bring us over to their island of refuge. In the interim the fog has lifted over the city but we see it still present out of the harbor and so it was. It took only minutes that we left our dock and the harbor to enter fully into this soupy mass of intangible gray mass of fog. A short ride later we arrived at the dock of the Peaks Island Yacht Club House where both Charlie and Karen waited to greet us and take us on a tour around the island. The island is well populated containing some significant mansions and numerous smaller homes and cottages. The island has a school, fire truck, post office, store, a few restaurants, some gift shops as well as a Lions Club facility with tables and benches for big parties. Still amidst it all is plenty of forest, ponds, creeks and a bunch of left over bunkers from WW II and WWI. Some of the bunkers became basements of mansions and homes, yet this really big one stands as a ghost covered with foliage overlooking the surrounding waterways from once proudly standing observation posts and lookouts. What an eary feeling it is walking into this huge yet dark and empty structure that was once built with serious intention to protect the main land and a fleet of war vessels lingering amongst these beautiful and numerous islands that acted as natural harbors.
Our friend’s cottage is a warm and cute dwelling place very functional yet simple and quaint. May this place continue to be a place of peace and harmony for both of you and those that come to visit! Thank you for sharing your peace of heaven with us! 

As we soon learned their neighbors are our neighbors from Florida and there more of people that have their summer homes on this beautiful island and a home in our neighborhood in FL.
Charlotte, Charlie’s mother was a delight to meet and break bread with. Here is a woman in her mid 80 full of energy, vitality and entrepreneurial spirit. She just bought herself a piece of land with a small cottage which she now is renovating and enlarging to her liking. This is a woman full of life that she wants to enjoy and not miss a beat. God bless you Charlotte and may your days be many and filled with blessings and abundance of all good things!
Dinner on the island was delightful at this local restaurant overlooking Portland’s Harbor and the city view at night. As we enjoyed dinner and good conversation a gentle rain emerged and the fog melted away revealing spectacular views. We returned on the local ferry which only took minutes to our surprise.



Next day arrived and in the anticipation of rain and wind we decided to remain in Portland one more day. This gave us the opportunity to visit Joe’s favorite men’s store, Joseph’s which we discovered several years back when we came to visit the Portland Boat Show in March. Mr. Joseph remembered us and was happy to see his old customers. We also found an Ital. deli and a spectacular Oyster Bar that could compete with any oyster place in the world, Eventide Oyster Co. If you did not know but Main has some spectacular oysters and I tasted most of them. Most of them come from the Demariscotta River region and are the sweetest I have ever tasted. Eventide has a great selection of oysters from all over the world.
Bon Appetite!




Portland, MA
Damariscotta to Portland, MA
Such a peace filled sunrise and morning has emerged urging us to leave our dock and move on towards our next destination while enjoying this mirror like scenery of the coastal waters of Maine. Well, we have to wait for Felice to come by and bring my camera that I left behind in her car last night. As soon as that is done we are on our way towards Portland. Numerous islands, rock formations, coves and lobster boats we pass riding along and avoiding those treacherous lobster pods as best as we can. At certain points it just becomes overwhelming but we manage and reach our destination safely.
There were some picture perfect lighthouses we passed beautiful sailboats as well as old schooners too. I even managed to go to the bow and do my yoga for a while. What a treat that is for me! It is a short destination run yet it still takes time for we are on the lookout and want to enjoy the ride too.


It is about mid day when we turn the corner to enter the Casco Bay, pass by Peaks Island and enter Portland’s Harbor. It certainly is a busy place here and too many boats all over the place. Starting with the Ferry followed by a three masted old schooner doing its harbor tour to numerous sightseeing tour boats mixed in some pleasure boats and lobster boats. Lobster boats we passed along the way for they are collecting their pray to bring to shore and sell.
This civilization business really is so disturbing to us every time we reenter into it’s domain. The peace and calm filled with nature sounds on the other hand is so soothing and very much appreciated. May our journey as it continues through more of densely populated areas bring us numerous opportunities to be one with Mother Nature till we learn to carry it with us no matter where we are and how busy it is around us.


We are staying at the DiMillo’s Marina right down town of Portland. It is a great marina with all necessary amenities and a good restaurant right in it. I like the fact that I can walk right into the old town center and do some window shopping while walking and enjoying the scenery. It also is convenient for our friends to come and visit with us. Our first visitor is good old Charlie Hitt who happens to have his summer residence on Peaks Island where he primarily resides all summer long. He had dinner with us on the boat and he and Joe remised all the time about business and challenges that come with it. Joe’s sharing his well acquired wisdom is always fun to watch, and a great gift for those that come to seek it.
Tomorrow our friends Troy and Lori, we met at Staniel Cay last winter are driving down from Bangor area to visit and spend the day with us. What fun it is and what a treat to have friends and acquaintances along the way that grace us with their presence during this special journey of Contessa Going North!


Maine – South Bristol, Damariscotta River

Sunday morning arose with a spectacular sunrise that as on so many occasions urged me to get up and witness the awakening of a new day being greeted by the warm and sparkling rays of a new born sun. I say new born for it is a new day in God’s creation all is beginning with a clean slate of paint up to our creative capacity to paint a picture of our imagination and make it a reality manifest right here and now. Learning to let go of the past and living in the now fully and abundantly is making this day a glorious day filled with potentials unimaginable.
As we linger for an hour or two waiting for the tide to slowly rise giving us a better chance of moving safely along the channel between rocks and shallows around Billings Diesel and Marine marina in Stonington, MA. And so we did, we made it through this narrow channel between the rocks and reefs, passed by some beautiful small islands and witnessed Isle au Haute in the distance. As we just learned Isle au Haute has just been taken over by the Acadia National Park authority making it a natural treasure that it already is. Just now it is being managed by Acadia Park authorities. 

Slowly we ride along this intriguing shore line of Maine, peaking into numerous fingers of bays and rivers as well as numerous islands of which some are larger and inhabited and some are just simply well rounded bolders reaching deep into the ocean as partially visible reefs. A bright crystal clear day makes it so much more pleasurable and those mine fields of lobster pods very visible too. Our run is some 45 nm yet it still is taking us good 4 hours to get to our destination. Just as we reached the Demasccotta River delta the wind started to pick up more reaching 10-15 kn as the day progressed. Glad we have reached our destination just in time. Gamage Marina is just north of the Christmas Cove in South Bristol. We are asked to wait for our dock being a fuel dock and another Eastbay has pulled in just before us to refuel and stay for the night. Docking was a bit tricky for the wind picked up and was pushing us right into the dock. We managed and all went well! A young 15 year old boy by the name Fin (reminding me very much of Huckleberry Fin) was the dock master and did his best in helping us out. Later he even helped me wash down the boat and shamie it as well. Ah well, the joys of boating and the old expression often used in Maine; anything goes in Maine!

That same evening we invited a guest over for dinner, a lovely lady Felicia About a year ago we met her and told her about our upcoming trip in which this area was included and she graciously invited us to call upon her once we get to her area, South Bristol. What a delightful and strong woman this tiny in stature person is and most gracious too. The following morning she returned with her family to greet us and then to take us on a tour of the island, town of Damaresccatta, and North Bristol. Beautiful area filled with ponds and rivers reaching out into the ocean and finally her home situated on top of cliffs overlooking the open ocean. What a delight Sea Horse II is and what a story around its creation. Thank you Felice for sharing your time and part of your life story with us! You are quite an amazing woman and inspirations to me! May your journey through life continue on this positive and happy note that you so well display!

Felice also introduced us to the local Demarisccotta oysters that are sweet and one of the biggest oysters I have yet encountered. The town’s shops are filled with great finds of all kind from daily use items to decorative and artistic ones as well, and not to forget the famous soda fountain. 


To finalize the tour, Felice took us to the John’s Bay Boat Yard where Peter Katz manufactures beautiful wooden boats that are pieces of art and solid structure. We have encountered Peter a few years back when we came to check him out while touring Maine by car and were fortunate enough to visit one of his creations at the Rockland Home and Boat Show a couple of years back. It is Joe’s dream to have a boat built by Peter some day and may that day come sooner than later for these boats are created by a man who has a vision and passion about his boats.


Shelburne, NS


Friday morning finally was a clear and sunny morning and we were able to depart Lunenburg the city of many happenings in the past and now. Even though our morning departure was as clear as can be along the way we encountered fog banks through which we had to pass and so we did. There were several of them along the way with clearances in between. Just past noon time we came to the inlet of Shelburne Harbor and all is well. It is a bright and sunny day here and the wind has picked up quite a bit and seems to be increasing by the minute. As usual we dock at the fuel dock and resupply ourselves with the energy that Contessa is consuming abundantly. Our dock was just a tad ahead and our docking procedure went very well with the assistance of young Sabrina and her boss Jason. Our intention is to stay over night and move on to Yarmouth next morning before we cross the Gulf of Maine the day after.






Next morning we arose to a foggy, foggy day. Departure plans had to be postponed and for the best of it all as we soon learned. As the day progressed, the fog slowly lifted and gave way to a magnificent day. Blue skies and a great disposition for all. It was time to walk into town and see what Shelburne is all about. It’s rich and proud history was none to par. In 1783 10,000 refugees from the American Revolution landed in this natural harbor and the Empire Loyalist Landing was created. The Historic Waterfront District features the most significant built wooden heritage in Canada. There also is a five star restaurant in town called Shallotte Lane. We heard about it from some fellow travelers in Lunenburg. It is very hard to get a reservation in this famous but small, yet elegant restaurant. We made sure to check it out at least during lunch and it was all that we heard it to be. The chef Roland is from Switzerland and cooks every hot meal himself with integrity and quality with an excellent sense of display and complimenting flavors. Dankeschoen Roland fuer ein ausgezeischnetes Mahl!


It was a great day and a wonderful stay at Shelburne. Saturday also was the day for the town’s Farmer’s Market which was a delight in itself. So many local farmers, bakers, pasta makers, arts and crafts, Lunenburg’s Ironworks distillery fruit liqueurs and local rum products. You are so intrigued that you simply want to buy it all! And so we did — not all but some. New friends we made and new connections we established.
The sunset was a spectacle in itself and the colors were soft and strong at the same time promising a clear and bright new day following. Thank you for a great day and the special gift received during this visit and our first solo crossing. Once the challenge had been accepted the confidence followed which resulted in success and accomplishment. Thank you for the lessons learned and guidance received!



Lunenburg, NS





It is now Monday morning and we have a lovely breakfast with our amazing hostess Cindy. After our goodbyes and a very tricky maneuvering act by Admiral Joe out of our dock we move on towards Lunenburg. Before we get there we decide to check out this lovely area of Mahoney Bay with a small but lively town where we are lucky to get a spot right at the town warf. It is easy docking and we are off to walk the town and find a spot for lunch. There is this Farmers Market place where you can buy delicasies, fresh farm produce and get yourself a warm or cold lunch. The simplicity and spirit of this town touches us all and we enjoy our short visit immensely.
Just around the corner as we sail along into our view comes this colorful and densely clustered town of Lunenburg. A very German name must entail some serious German descendants, I think. Our dock is again right at the city warf but this time at a floating dock which has the desired power we require but the issue is with water. In order to get water we had to borrow it from the neighboring marina building and connect our old hose to their hose and than the regular hose we usually use. As all of this finageling transpires the owner directly behind our boat angrily warns us that we cannot trespass through his property because it is an insurance liability issue. This was the first unpleasant encounter with a Canadian on our entire trip so far. It is obvious that the man has old standing disagreements with the town and all that comes with it. We also learned that he is not Canadian but American. Ah that human nature of power and entitlement sprinkled with ego had to surface at some point after all.



Our captain Tom has decided to throw in the towel and leave his post for there are some pressing issues he has to tend to. You have done well dear Tom and it is not easy to see you go especially since now so much will fall into my lap too. Ah well, c’est la vie, as the French would say! Good luck to you on all your ways! Lucky for me Martina has decided to jump right in and assist her mother and Joe in all she could possibly assist in. She is good at that and has done it several times before. Here comes my beautiful Martina leaving all her duties behind to jump in and rescue her mother! She is easy to be with and see where she is needed without even a request. Thank you Tin Tin! You are a gem and a ray of sunshine in my life!






Spending several days in Lunenburg gave us the opportunity to experience everything from dense fog in the morning to buggy rides through the historic sites, a taste of home made ice-cream to entertainment and a walk through a rich and colorful history of this old and fascinating town. We tasted some exquisite meals at Fleur de Sel, a 5 star restaurant and enjoyed an evening with the local group The Glimpses. If you ever come to Lunenburg you have to see this show for it will take you on a journey through time and touch on a variety of important or typical subjects pertaining to Lunenburg’s history. The pride of the town is definitely this magnificent sailing vessel named ‘the Bluenose’ built right here in Lunenburg. In it’s time it sailed across the Atlantic with an unmatched speed and grace. At the moment it has been rebuilt and is about to be launched again in it’s full glory. God’s speed ahead you unmatched beauty of the deep blue sea!
Thank you Lunenburg for giving us a home for a few days on our journey now going west south west!



Halifax, Peggy’s Cove, Chester to Gold River


Sunday was a simply spectacular sunny day and we left our Royal Nova Scotia Squadron marina to see Halifax from water this time. The views were simply spectacular and there was plenty to see from the old city marina to the Atlantic Naval facilities of Canada, to a ship repair station right next to it. As we learned from our visit to the Maritime Museum the entire city was basically viped out by the Great Explosion following the colision of the two ships during the time of the First World War, and was completely rebuilt in prety much an authentic way in the years following that event. Now we see many new modern buildings and two story apparment complexes that on the lower level house shops, restaurants and coffee shops along the board walk of the old harbor. There are a couple of historic old ships in the harbor too of which one is the famous Acadia, and for many years she served as the mapping ship of this whole region of Nova Scotia and Cape Brenton. Next to it is a Naval ship 181 that accompanied many of the Naval fleets going to Europe during the World War Two time. She was a ‘cruiser’ of its kind and survived where many ships of her fleet were distroyed.


After coasting along this very rapidly growing city with it’s three Universities we depart passing by the isle of St. George’s which in centuries passed was used to inprison the so unwated and disliked Acadian people that came from France as settlers. Some of same desendants of those settlers went to the area of New Orleans where they seemed to have had less problems than in these British controled lands of the north.
Out into the big open waters we go again on our way to Peggy’s Cove, the next point of interest on our agenda. In the vicinity of this cove we remember the unfortunate Swiss Air crash of 1994 which carried 2 mil.$ worth of Iranian Jems, a Sudi Sheik and a highly ranking UN official. Peggy’s Cove is one of the most photographed places in the world and here we are right next to it’s picturesque lighthouse and the smooth rolling bolders on which it stands. As we are gliding along this magnifisent sight the sound of Scotish bag pipes appears in the distance. This you cannot memorialize in a photograph but only in the memory banks of your heart.




As clear as the day was as present those big swells of the north Atlantic were as well. Onward we go in surch for adventure and new beautiful places to see and experiance. Our encounters are many and our stops to witness them are far from long, yet we take it all in as much as possible. Eventually we turn the corner and get that wind out of our face heading into the area of the famous Nova Scotia Martha’s Vinyard, named Chester.

What a display of green rolling hills of islands on which some have a magestic home or estate all to themselves. There are numerous homes of mostly old money, as they say, and of families that have been coming to Chester for ove a hundred years and from generation to generation. LL Bean, Levy Strauss etc. are just a few of the names mentioned. Lovely town with five star restaurants, pattisserie shops and all that comes with a clientelle of that nature.There are art galleries and art events taking place throughout the summer months and as we learned for those that remain in the winter months there are art classes of all sorts available for every hearts desire.




Since there is a Sailing Regatta taking place in Chester there are no spots available for us to dock or stay at, which makes us move on to the only available marina that has a floating dock, water and possibly power that we require. It is the Gold River Marina, a place well tucked in up the river just around the corner from Chester, yet as we later learned quite a boat building facility. There are some beautiful peaces of art like sailboats in their hangers being worked on as we speak. Not only is this a discovery but the manager of the facility is the most special and heart warming lady by the name Cindy. With her bright smile and the most positive disposition you could ever have she gives us not only a guided tour of the yard but takes us with her car into Chester which is just 10 min car ride away. She drives us on to roads with spectacular views and some lovely old and new homes. She is a wealth of information on town residents, activities and even real estate. Cindy is determined to find us a lovely cottage or home to rent next summer comming for she wants us back to stay for a while. Next morning she arrives with a box of most delightful French pastries for breakfast. Thank you Cindy and God bless your every day crowned with happiness and joy!
Halifax, NS


Just about 8 or even a bit earlier we left our dock at Lincomb. It was a very peaceful night and before you know it, it was all over and we were on our way to Halifax. It seemed much easier going back out the river and into the big northern ocean which was beautifully flat and calm today inviting us for a magnificent ride of some 70 nm to Halifax. It was as restful as could be and I took full advantage of it as did Tom who still is recovering from his digestive encounter. DiGize and Inner Defense are doing their job and his body is responding perfectly.
Along the way we are passing by some rocky shores and small islands as well as reefs that the mighty ocean has created throughout time. There are several lighthouses crowning the most dangerous reefs and rocky shores which is a pretty picture to see.
Just as we turn the corner and are at the entrance to the great Halifax harbor the wind has picked up and the seas are getting a bit choppy now. Nonetheless, we are here and soon at our designated harbor for the time being. Our initial arrangement was to stay at the downtown marina but we needed to fuel up first and for that we had to deviate to the Royal Nova Scotia Yacht Squadron marina. This is a nicely located marina a bit out of the hustle and bustle of the city life. It has two heated pools of which one is a saltwater one, a nice restaurant and a quaint environment, yet just 15 min taxi ride away from the old city area. The choice was made and here we are at a floating dock with power and all we need. The dock master Wayne was quite a salesman and won us over easily while even altering the price a bit since he met his par in the ‘master negotiator’ Joe.






We have spent two wonderful days here in Halifax and experinaced the beauty and the hospitality of it’s people. We also learned about the rich history of thie region and seen proof of so many historic major shipwracks that have happened right here in the vicinity of Halifax. One of the most famous ones is the Titanic itself. I believe over 300 victims of this calamity are barried in several of it’s cemetaries, expecially those that could not be identified. With solemn dignity and heartfelt sencerity each victim was barried with the usual respects and in the surrounding of local parishioners. It takes a special kind of people that would devote their time and attention to thousands of victims that have been brought to their shores. Not to forget entire Naval convoys gathering in this very protected harbour before heading over the Atlantic towards European shores.
Than they themselves were hit with such horror that distroyed the city and killed 2000 people while wounding 25000 more. It was the colision of two ships right here in the harbor of which one carried exposives. The exposion was so powerful that it was felt all the way to Cape Brenton. Parts of the ship landed miles and miles in one and some in the other direction as well. Because of that calamity and the total distruction of the city they have decided to place the names of the roads on to the pavement itself as a permanent marking.
There was much aid coming from all over but Massechussetts is the one mostly remembered and talked about.
Yes, indeed it is a specoial city and its people are warm and embracing. Thank you to all these wonderful individuals from our dockmaster Wayne to the taxi driver or the waiter tending to us at the Bicycle Thief Restaurant. Not to forget all our fellow mariners and neighbors giving us local knowledge tips and special locations for our continued journey!
It has been a great and very memorable experiance for sure!






Now our visit is coming to an end and our farewell dinner is one of Tom’s specialties; “Low Country Boil”, which was delightful to our pallets and good for the stomach.
It is a mellow evemning here at the Royal Nova Scotia Squadron Yacht Club and there is a sadness lingering about us tonight. Is it the ‘good-bay’ thing or just the ancient spirit still lingering in the hearts and hills of this land? Nonetheless, it is a wonderful sunset coloring the sky with the most delightful colors of the oncoming night. God bless this land and all of it’s people!
May the Spirit of the Sea and the Sky give us a safe passage for our journey onward tomorrow with the new day’s arrising!


Leaving Bas D’Or – Halifax

As we left our sacred cove and came into the open waters of the lake we encountered for the first time the winds that still can create quite some white caps even here on the lake. It did not take too long till we reached the shelter of St. Peter’s cove and marina.
It also was the day for Jelaine to depart from the boat and be driven to Halifax via rent-a-car and Tom accompanying her for her next day flight back to Florida.


So we returned to our old safe haven of the St. Peter’s Marina to rest through the night and move on the following day. The window of opportunity in regard to weather is short and it would be nice to move on to new sights and places, meet new people and have more special encounters as we always seem to have.


It is Wednesday afternoon and Tom has finally returned from his excursion to Halifax but he has returned sick as a dog, as they would say. It seems that he got some serious food poisoning last night and is having a hard time with it. Well, here we go, Nada’s oils and Inner Defense never fail to amaze and help in any such situation. When in need everybody is willing to give it a shot and to their amazement they feel better. Thank God for Young Living Oils!
Well, even though it is already way into the day Joe decides to move out and bring us to our next resting spot along our way to Halifax. To our amazement it is not as bad out there on the open ocean as predicted and we are able to reach Liscomb Lodge some 70 nm further S SW as initially planned. This lodge is tucked in way up into the Liscomb river where they only have one dock available and there was not enough power for us to hook up to but stay on the generator through the night. What a ride it was gliding along the river into the bright setting sun and finding the almost invisible bowies that are marking shawls and shallows along the way. Just as the sun set behind the hill and the trees surrounding this huge lodge that seems so out of place we were able to dock, wash the boat of from quite a bit of salt that we collected along the way and settle in for the night. It is a peaceful setting as the blanket of the night gently wraps it all into it’s warm embrace.


































